Way of Life

This is just a snippet of something I have started working on :)

Her vision was blurred as she broke through the water and into the air; she filled her lungs with fresh ocean air and then sighed. Her blonde hair stuck to the sides of her faces, and she squinted looking up at the sun. She straddled a white and blue surfboard that was slowly bobbing around in the aqua water; it was a perfect day to go surfing, and she was determined to spend all day on the water. After taking a few minutes to gather her thoughts and observe the next set of waves coming up, she put her hands back into the water, and paddled out into the deep. Mind focused on the wave, she let herself become the world around her. Surfing was an art and a passion and cannot be taken lightly for those who are serious about it. The old familiar roar came first, threatening to knock her off her board, she braced herself and quick as lightening put her hands in front of her, pushed on the board and lifted herself up so that she was standing. Legs apart, feet planted she rode the probably 6 foot high wave hearing the wind howl past her ears, the water bubbling beneath her feet, and the adrenaline coursing through her veins. Crashing back down onto still water, and then repeating the motions all day long. Nothing could tear her away from her love. Even when dusk came she insisted upon herself not to leave. She had no one else to please, and so she rode until the water started to die down and the only light was the moon and stars reflecting off the water like diamonds beckoning out to the wanted, the lonely, and the gullible.