The Perfect Day

The perfect day

It was colder than normal on the walk to the beach.
In the darkness of predawn, the lines of the swell could be seen.
Ocean smells, feet sinking into cold sand, crash of surf drowns all other sounds.

The perfect day

The entry to the water is filled with the familiar anticipation and rush of adrenaline.
The warmth of the water surprises me.
Even the first duckdive is acceptable.
The waves are spaced perfectly to make it out to the line-up easily.

The perfect day

The peaks are peeling off predictable rights or lefts.
I see a dark section rise above the water's horizon.
As I turn to paddle a porpoise breaks the surface.
This startles then fascinates me.
He alternates between catching fish and playing in the surf.
The connection of two mammals enjoying waves together does not escape me.

The perfect day

Wave after wave comes.
Skillful rides, klutzy  wipe outs - all absorbed as indelible memories.
My arms grow tired from the paddling,
but I cannot help but turn around and do it again.

The perfect day

The sun has now been up an hour.
Bundled beachcombers look at me in the water as if I am crazy.
If I am, I am grateful.

Reviews

[Desert Dreamer]

I feel a connection with the water and nature, to know that other creatures play in the waves with us. I'd prefer to be crazy and experience the belonging you describe.

[Nancy Lee Shrader]

You make the ocean sound so safe, but they are out there. SHARKS! GREAT WRITE!