Desert SeasA Story by liza.ruby2588A beginning description of my time in Arizona over the Fourth of July weekend. I plan to go back sometime soon to do a full ethnography of Jerome, AZ.
Flying over the desert at a cool 80-90 MPH, air conditioner blasting to offset the outer temperature of 100 degrees, I find myself suddenly surrounded by sand dunes. For the last hour and a half I have been driving through scrubby sagebrush and rocky terrain. I am heading east from San Diego, California to Cottonwood, Arizona.
Heading into the sunrise, the sky had gone from a low greenish yellow to a bright blue with a blazing ball of white glaring through the bug strewn windshield. Before this, I had never seen the immense sand dunes. It is like I suddenly been transported to the far away lands of Saudi Arabia. The Imperial Sand Dunes in California are a large recreation center for ‘off highway vehicles’ or OHV’s. Also known as the Algodones Dunes, they are the largest mass of sand dunes in California. Extending more than 40 miles along the Eastern edge of the Imperial Valley, and averaging 5 miles wide. The highest dunes, loom over the highway at up to 300 feet. The summer temperatures, which I am experiencing in their fullest, can often be above 110 degrees. I am traveling during the 4th of July weekend, the highway is eerily quiet adding to the magic of the dunes. I can only imagine the sounds and throngs of people that must be here in the milder months of October through May.I turn off Highway 8 onto a gravel path up a dune for a lookout point. Standing here I can see for miles, wind blown peaks of golden sand like a sea of rolling waves crashing to a halt on a distant shore of scraggly sagebrush. I breathe the dry air deep into my lungs, I can feel the pinch where it is drying out the walls of my nose. The air blows a fine curtain of sand against my bare legs, sticking to the thin layer of sweat that has accumulated during the drive. Hopping back into my car, I relish the intense temperature change of ice cold air blowing on my face and arms. I continue driving east, when I pass through the dunes, the terrain returns to the flat rock strewn desert. Passing through the tiny towns and small roadside settlements, I can’t help but wonder, “Who drove through this desolate area, and said to themselves, Well, I think this will do?” There seems to be nothing around, no obvious attractions as far as things to do for fun. Maybe that is part of the attraction though, the lack of surrounding stresses. I could definitely feel the stress get stripped away as I sped down the highway. With every mile I drove into the expansive desert setting, the loud noises and perpetual strangers get left behind. My destination is Cottonwood, Arizona nestled in the beautiful Verde Valley. Across the valley the red hills of Sedona rear out of the valley floor, as the sun sets the color is astonishing. My hotel is a small hotel famous for its famous guests throughout the year, including Elvis, Clint Eastwood and many others. The Sundial Motel has a charming cobblestone courtyard filled with flowers and plenty of shade. The room, while it was charming enough, is in need of a remodel. With the economy as it is now though, the funds for remodels are coming in not so regularly. My second day in Arizona was spent in the small mountain town of Jerome. Known as the Mile High town, Jerome is an old copper mining settlement. Precariously perched, the houses and stores overlook the beautiful valley. Jerome is located at the top of Cleopatra Hill, 5,200 feet elevation; between Prescott and Flagstaff. Originally a copper mining town, Jerome is set at a 30° incline which definitely adds to its charm and interesting attraction. This incline has contributed to the amount of building that over time, have slid down the slope. The most famous structure being the old jail house which slid down the slope an entire city block length, landing on the next level down of town. Jerome was initially intended to be pit stop on the road to wealth for many, but the during WWI prosperity, growth and labor flourished. All of this caused major growth in business and families to put down roots. Today, it is a quaint historical landmark for international travelers. It is now a shining example of the Old West culture, cowboys and brothels. The locals are more than happy to stop and chat about the rich history of the area, it is definitely a necessary stop on that long family summer road trip. © 2011 liza.ruby2588Author's Note
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