Oregon Coast Bicycle Ride - Day 2

November 2, 2012

                I started out early.  Even before the sun began to lighten the darkness of the clouds I was breaking down camp.  It had rained all night and my gear was damp despite being under the canopy.   I needed my headlamp in the growing light and as I rode the pleasant downhill into Cannon Beach the dull overcast began to glow pink.

                Leaving my bike at a small park with the statue of a whale I walked out upon the beach in the morning.  After a short walk I returned to find an elderly couple sitting on a bench who could not direct me to a restaurant because they were not from the area being travelers like myself.   But they had seen a sign and it was along my route.

                After breakfast the rain immediately moved in.  I had dressed too warmly the day before so my own sweat kept me cold.  Now, though my raingear served great purpose in shielding me from the driving rain, I could only follow the white line of the highway glancing up only occasionally to make sure I was taking the right way.  I could feel rivers of water flowing down my cheeks and underneath the high collar that zippered over my mouth soaking the front of my shirt.

                Passing Hug Point the road rounded a curve and ascended in a straight line into the mouth of the first of two tunnels that I had to ride through on my route south to California.  I waited for traffic to clear then began to pedal as fast as I could toward the end.  Highway traffic became an immediate threat to my hearing as cars entered into the tunnel and became thundering bullets.  The road closed off to a small shoulder with the sloping ceiling nearly scraping my head as logging trucks buzzed angrily by.  Coming to the end was a relief beyond description with a view.

                From Cannon Beach the road had turned inland with only occasional beach views that were spectacular but, at the tunnel’s end, the land dropped away 300 feet to rocky beaches that gave way to sand during low tide.  Jagged waves pushed in from the deep by the turbulence of the storm crashed against the cliffs and though the wind remained the rain had stopped.

                Shortly after the tunnel I entered Tillamook County and Oswald West State Park and began a long but shallow climb.  The views of the ocean were breathtaking often lasting several miles as the route dove into and out of the many bluffs and headlands.  I was exhausted as I made the descent into Oswald West Campgrounds and though I walked out to Short Sand Beach I did not stay at this park.

                I rode on catching a strong south wind pushing me back while I was making my most difficult climb yet: Neahkanie Mountain.  I was warned about the small shoulders and steepness of the ascent but I had it in my mind that all my years of hiking would give me an advantage in conditioning for the bicycle.  I found myself pushing my bike over the last false summits against a driving wind that threatened to blow me back to Washington and finally came to the summit.

                Taking shelter behind a small outcropping of rocks I ate to replenish what little strength I had left.  There was plenty of food in my packs but no chance to cook anything in the chilly wind.  From there the road dove down into Manzanita and Nehalem where I met with a former co-worker and long-time friend Jackolyn Theoharris.

                We met at a Shell station at the bottom of the hill and went for tea.  After drying out she drove me a short distance to Wheeler saving me a short climb and 3 miles.  By that time I had 25 miles to go with 3 hours of sunlight and I was feeling refreshed from my visit with Jacky.  Keeping my pace I found the next hills fairly easy compared to my earlier experience and came into Tillamook while there was plenty of light.

                Rain delayed the next stages of my journey.  It was nonstop downpour for the next two days.  I watched from the safety of my old friend Riley Switzer’s apartment window, fear and doubt growing in my heart about my own fortitude and loneliness as the grey days fell into darkness too quickly for my comfort.  I waited and regained my strength.