Times EnigmaA Poem by alanwgrahamA poetic desciption of a visit to the idylic Scottish island of Rum which segues into an enigmatic dream-like story of time travel.Times enigma! I sit slumped, serene, on scruffed black plastic chair, gnarled head to bothy wall, harled against brutal atlantic storms Ghuirdal bothy, six Rum miles remote from Bulloughs castellated
folly imprudent hummingbirds and alligators succumbed to their inevitable fate (as in their turn, did the Bulloughs!) Edwardian jollies, rich men’s follies! toasting my sun beaten face limbs pleasantly weary That long walk in, bog and heather, burdened, distracted by easy blether with Ian, well met fellow walker
Ghuirdal’s bay on day like this girded by steep grassy slope and crag it’s wee arc of round boulder shore so near to heaven, a god sent bliss. neck crickingly high above Bloodstone hill squints down benign! Closing weary eyes I hear the mumbling burn of Ghuir’s dale louping, rumbling o’er linn then ‘neath the boulders, seaward tumbling.
Rasp and hiss of white foam wheezing rush through rocky throat Liquid lap of wavelets on seaweed deep slow rhythm of swell ringing wave rounded stones
Earlier we thrilled to spy a great shark, basking ever open maw, tail and fin, feeding languidly, quartering the bay Further out I spot a waterspout Two great minke whales arch
smoothly and dive Yards away, eight curious red deer, antlers in velvet, graze endlessly. Birds interrupt in each own tongue Hoodies, oystercatchers piping wheatears, stonechats, pippits cormorants leap and plunge to fishy depths, a single heron stalks patiently till lethal rapier strike gulls scream and dive as otter threatens nest and young while on the brae a cuckoo calls this feast for senses, natures gift enthrals
The evening sun slips down above the indigo isle of Canna A blinding iridescent blaze of light slashes shimmering sea Distant misted Hebridean isles tantalise while near, etched in cobalt, clear as crystal each familiar notch and rough gabbro pinnacle on Skye’s feared and beloved Cuillin ridge
My eyes close, I drift inwards, until a voice, friendly, inquisitive, coaxes me back, his tongue is strange, but strangely making sense
‘Welcome stranger, how far have you come this day’? ‘Just from the mainland’. I answer ‘I am Donald McLean’. He smiles. Shakes my hand firmly. ‘Join us for a meal, stranger. Visitors from afar are rare.’
I look at Donald. His clothes seem from another age, brown jacket, rough woven; shirt, uncollared, plain; trousers, patched; leather boots, well worn. Looking around I realise for the first time I am in a small village. Donald’s primitive house is one of perhaps a dozen lining a rough stony road. Each, an inward sloping stony wall with low door turf roof roped down, boulder-safe from storm. Peaty smoke spirals from each roof.
I suddenly realise that I am in turn being examined. Wrinkled, weathered old women spin by their doors, gaggles of barefoot children gaze with undisguised curiosity. Beyond the township every spare scrap of land is cultivated, narrow strips growing potatoes, kale and oats. Black cattle graze the slopes. Something unsettling nags away I’ve no recollection of arriving at this disconcerting place.
Donald returns. ‘Our simple meal is ready, pray come inside.’ I dip my head to enter the gloom. A makeshift table has been set between the two beds that nearly fill the room. A candle burns, to light, alter like, a white tablecloth spread with finest crockery.
‘This is my good wife Mhairidh and my five bairns.’ They are shy, tongue tied, faces glowing in the flickering candle light. The simple meal, a feast - a jug of cream, oatcakes, a bowl of potatoes, a plate of salted herring, cheese. ‘Stranger, would you care for a glass of fine red Lisbon wine?’ Donald laughs as he sees my surprise. ‘We salvaged many from the ship that wrecked on the seal rocks.’ ‘Let us thank the Lord now for our meal.’ Donald bows his head. He speaks a few words and we say an ‘Amen’.
As we eat, we speak. First, I, of my journey here. The train journey from Edinburgh to Mallaig and then the ferry trip across to the Island. I tell them of my work with computers. My words puzzle and it is the eldest lad that asks the most searching questions. Donald says with pride, ‘Alasdair is a clever lad, far too bright to spend his days on this island. Come the summer he will stay with his uncle in Glasgow and carry on his education.’
There is most amazement when I look at my digital watch to check the time. I take it from my wrist and pass it round to gasps as the numbers change. Trying to explain how it works I feel light headed. Donald speaks in turn of their lives, the mutual support of kin and neighbours, wild ceilidh nights of stories, fiddle and dance but then the daily struggle to win a living from the land and sea, the hard times of hunger and illness. He does not forget to mention, above them all, the minister and the good Lord. As I listen I become more perplexed - who are these folk who have forsaken the bustle and vices of modern life?
‘Will you take a wee dram with me?’ Donald offers. ‘That’s very kind.’ ‘You have a pleasant life here I think?
Donald’s brow furrows. ‘I am fain to cause you worry stranger but a dark shadow has been cast over our island. Just this year we have learned that an English lord has purchased the island. His factor is, at this moment, issuing notice of eviction, under threat of force, to the people of Kilmory township. As he says this Mhairidh sobs. ‘Surely not! I gasp in outrage. This seems like a cruel tale from centuries before. The whisky was fine but I was weary and the inevitable happened - my eyes close. Thoughts muddle and I sleep.
I awake in pained confusion as head bangs bothy wall. By now the sunset’s gone but myriad stars blaze undiminished. As I prepare my bed unsettling fragments come together in my head. Then all comes back in vivid detail - I can even taste the whisky! But of course - a dream! By the next day it’s all but gone - but where’s my watch?
A year passes. My Rum idyll becomes but one more pleasant memory to file away but I decide to repeat the trip again with my wife. It’s a gamble for I know well that attempts to repeat perfection are doomed to failure. All goes well, the train to Mallaig, a night’s B and B and then we take the morning ferry to Rum.
The sun shines as we hike over to the Ghuirdal bothy. As we breast the grassy slope and gaze down on the bay I am pleased that she is lost for words. After unpacking we have a brew and I suggest taking the short walk up to see the old township.
As we stroll up past the ruined black houses an unsettling feeling of familiarity grips me. Some urge makes me stop outside one house and my dream of the year before floods back in vivid detail. I am drawn inside and dip my head under the low door to enter. Closing my eyes I can see the table set with white cloth and candle, the meal, the bottle of Lisbon wine, Donald and his wife and the children’s shining faces. Dreams can be so real! Then for some inexplicable reason I put my fingers into a narrow crack on one side of the door lintel. I feel something smooth and gasp as I pull out my black plastic digital watch lost the year before. I’m puzzled but there is obviously a logical explanation - perhaps some visitor found it and put it in the crack, perhaps I even put it there myself thinking it was broken. My memory is definitely going!
Back home again. A few weeks on I am in Waterstone’s and I happen to see a newly published book on the history of Rum. As I browse, I am intrigued to see a chapter on the Ghuirdal township. It covers the end of the clan system and the clearances in the 1820’s. Of particular interest are extracts from a newly discovered diary written in the period by a local man Alasdair McLean. He had left the island just before his family were cleared to live with his uncle and continue his education in Glasgow. As I started reading I suddenly felt faint and my heart started to race.
‘At the age of ten a curious incident caused consternation in our township. One day my father returned from the field to find a stranger sitting at our door. He was clad in outlandish garb. He spoke in a fine English tongue but although we speak only a few words of the language and he had none of the Gaelic we seemed to comprehend each other. My father offered hospitality as is our custom and even brought out our last bottle of the fine red Lisbon wine salvaged from the wreck. As we conversed he spoke of many unbelievable things ranging from wheeled carriages that moved on iron rails and great winged flying machines that carried many people at great speed through the air. What amazed us most however was the timepiece the stranger wore on his wrist. He showed us how the numbers showing the time changed is if by magic.’
As the afternoon drew on the stranger wearied, perhaps it was the Lisbon wine and the dram, and he eventually fell asleep. We left him to rest but when we returned later there was no sign of him and no-one in the township had seen him go. The next morning as my mother was sweeping she found his timepiece on the floor. My father decided to put it for safe keeping in the crack below the door lintel and we left a note with the ferryman lest he should return. Of course the matter was soon forgotten and anyway within the year our home was a roofless ruin.’ (at the turn of
the 20th century the industrialist George Bullough built a grand house
on the Isle of Rum - the palmhouse had alligators and hummingbirds!)
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Added on March 1, 2016Last Updated on July 15, 2022 AuthoralanwgrahamScotland, United KingdomAboutMarried with three kids, I retired early from teaching physics but have always enjoyed mountains. In my forties I experienced a manic episode which kick-started a creative urge. I've written a novel .. more..Writing
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