THE ROARING BLUE AND WHITE

At peace is that solitary feeling you have with the ocean. The intimate conversation with the crashing surf, immersed in the cool rolling water.

 

Happiness is the sun warming of your face, the sloshing sound from under the board and the sweet smell of wax. 

 

 

Focus is the concentration, looking for an opportunity, calculating and analysing the lit mosaic swell as it forms a wave.

 

Excitement is hearing the surge, as it gallops towards you.

 

Exertion is the ache in your arms, heaving of your chest and the heart in your throat, as the stillness becomes animated, frantically paddling, as you are lifted towards the sky.  

 

Freedom is the motion of nature pushing you forwards to the sandy beach, as you stand triumphant dancing, flying and turning along the crest of the roaring blue and white.

 

Accomplishment is the sand between your toes, watching the sunset behind the silhouette of rocks jutting out like teeth from the spent orange sea.